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DaTaFrY said in June 9th, 2008 at 6:27 pm

Thx for posting this. I just picked up a PP2 over the weekend which looks like it has the same type of issues. Right now I don’t get any ROM errors but have the garbald screen, so I’m thinking I may have a power issue like you described. This is my first cabinet repair, so it should be fun


Jeff Waldron said in June 16th, 2008 at 8:59 am

Glad I could help! I am still have a little bit of trouble keeping this power dialed in, so I will likely be posting some further information. I may end up adding a switching power supply to supply the +5v to the boards, and just use the ARII’s for sound amplification. Will do some testing soon.

mr. farrell said in June 21st, 2008 at 7:41 pm

hi jeff. I’m trying to sell my pole position arcade but but I’m having sporadic problems with it. Upon power up its just a blank blue screen. sometimes its displaying ram 53 or ram 62.

Can the ram be found anywhere besides other PP boards?


Jeff Waldron said in June 22nd, 2008 at 2:03 pm

Not sure if your problem actually is RAM. Since I also got RAM errors until I got the voltages worked out, you may be seeing the same thing. I would double-check to make sure you’re pushing 5V to the board. I’ve actually heard 5.15V is a good number to aim for. If that is not the problem, you can check with sites that carry RAM such as http://www.arcadechips.com. I don’t remember right off hand what chip they need, so you’ll want to reference the manual for your board. Check http://www.klov.com and look up Pole Position. There will be a link to a manual at the bottom of the page.

DaTaFrY said in June 25th, 2008 at 12:08 pm

I’ve done the regulator repair and also did the sense fix. So I’m getting 5.1v to the board, but still have a garbled screen. So I’m thinking it might be in the ram somewhere. Which leads me to:

How can you test the ram chips? Is it just a voltage thing, or is there some nifty gadget you can get?


Jeff Waldron said in June 25th, 2008 at 3:03 pm

I’m sure there is a way to test them, but I honestly wouldn’t know how to tell you to do it. Your best bet would be to pick up a non-working PP PCB and start swapping.

Also, start running power wires directly to the test points on the board. You may not actually be getting the 5.1V to the board like you think you are.

mr. farrell said in June 25th, 2008 at 5:55 pm

thanx. i’ll check that out.

mr. farrell said in July 9th, 2008 at 1:48 pm

hey Jeff. im havin trouble makin sense of the schematics for the pcb’s. i see all the tabs marked 5.1v and GRN, like the ones below. are those he test points you were referring to?

thanx for your help.

Jeff Waldron said in July 10th, 2008 at 7:23 am

Yes, those tabs are the test points. Just be careful that you are using the right ones. There are the voltage ones, but also some of the other wiring has test points. For example, I would guess GRN is GREEN for video signal. Don’t have a board with me but if I remember right, it’s GND for ground.

mr. farrell said in July 10th, 2008 at 10:06 pm

oh man… glad you mentioned that. i might not have noticed that. i dont have my board right now eithr but im pretty sure you’re right .

thanx again.

Jeff Waldron said in July 11th, 2008 at 6:47 am

No sweat! Make sure you remember to let me know how it goes! I’m finishing up my Tron over the next couple weeks and then I’m going to get this game done. If I can knock out the power issues I’ll let you know.

mark kirby said in August 9th, 2008 at 12:47 pm

Hi. I have a PP1 and I’ve started working on it. The PCB has many wires soldered to the board itself with its own power supply. The sense wires are cut so would this be a situation where the AR boards are used just for sound? Do i plug in the switching power supply and the transformer assy separately? Thanks


Jeff Waldron said in August 10th, 2008 at 2:09 pm

Mark, it sounds like that’s what they’ve done. I may end up doing the same thing. Double check that the power wires from the AR boards are not still being sent to the PP game PCBs. There should just be sound wiring. The sense wires really aren’t important to worry about if the PCBs are using a seperate power supply.

m kirby said in September 29th, 2008 at 3:10 pm

Hi again. Do you have a blank red screen when you
power up the game with nothing attached? I’ve got just the monitor power hooked up right now. Do the AR boards have to be hooked up to the PCB for it to work? Sorry so many questions. Thanks


Jeff Waldron said in October 3rd, 2008 at 7:45 am

Mark, The AR boards supply power to the game, so yes they need to be hooked up. You could use a separate power supply, then you should be able to test it without the AR boards. I need to do the same thing but I haven’t had time to mess with it lately.

Dan said in October 10th, 2008 at 9:15 am

Hey, thanks for the great tips!

I have a PP2 PCB with some battery dammage and alot of dirty chips. What is the best way to clean theses? I tried gently scratching off the dirt on the chips, but seems to do more damage than good.


Jeff Waldron said in October 10th, 2008 at 11:17 am

@Dan: I’ve heard washing PCB’s in a dishwasher is helpful. You’d have to remove all of the socketed chips and wait for days to dry. I’ve never tried it and to be honest would be wary of doing so. As for the battery damage, I’ve heard washing with white vinegar is useful. I’ve done it before to neutralize the corrosion.

Dan said in October 10th, 2008 at 2:40 pm

for the PCBs i have removed the damaged and cleaned up the board pretty nice.

I was asking more about the legs of the small socket chips. I have some that are very tarnished or rusted.

Michael Mauricio said in October 22nd, 2008 at 5:04 pm

i have a PP2 that was working just fine until the monitor went out a few months ago. Does anyone have any suggestions at to what kind of replacement i should get? I’ve seen a few generic ones and was wondering if those are okay to use. thanks!

mr. farrell said in November 5th, 2008 at 3:54 pm

Hey Jeff. I think I might have fried something in my pp2 pcb. I tried redistributing the power as suggested.

I wanted to test it out, so i ran a couple of wires to a test point and a ground. When i powered it up, there was a puff of smoke from the pcb. Now the board is getting no power.

I hooked them up to what i thought was the power. All the cables routing to the boards were connected to the blue cylinder with the terminals on the top.

Any advice on what to do now and what i might have done wrong.

thanks again.

Rick Bryant said in November 14th, 2008 at 4:45 am

Hey Jeff, Thanks for posting this great site with all its info you have provided. Finally finished my PP2 and it only took 7 years. I had some of the same problems and a bunch of others. Thanks again.


Jeff Waldron said in December 2nd, 2008 at 11:51 am

@Rick, glad to hear you’ve got your game done! I’m hoping mine doesn’t take as long.

Jason said in December 21st, 2008 at 9:56 pm

Hi I was given a Pole Position 2 arcade machine. Its my first one and have no experience fixing them. But i seem to have the same exact screen as the picture with the caption (“My first attempt at placing it into the cabinet resulted in the following:”) I would like to try and adjust the voltage but I don’t know how to go about doing it. Any help would be great. Thank you.

Jeff said in January 2nd, 2009 at 2:33 pm

Hi Jeff, Happy New Year to ya! Thanx for posting this! I have had an original PP for about 7 years and want to upgrade it to PP II. Web research has has turned up a few vague answers to this; most stating that a conversion kit was available for original PPs’s that included, among other things, new EPROMS to plug into the PP PCB.
So I was wondering…. if I get a working PP II board set, can I simply plug it into my PP system? Or must/can I swap EPROMS to get this done? …Or am I flippin dreaming and am stuck at the Fugi Speedway..

Jeff Waldron said in January 3rd, 2009 at 10:08 pm

@Jeff, you should be good to go if you pick up a boardset for PP2. The kit was a modification to the original PP board, but a converted board has all the same wiring and connections to plug right in. The kit actually includes new EPROMs and some custom chips, so unfortunately it’s not just a quick ROM swap like many conversions. If you do get a working PP2 board, you are gold!

Jeff said in January 4th, 2009 at 12:06 am

Yea man, GOLD! ..that is what Mr. Bob Roberts told me as well! “Plug n Play” were his words and I am flippin stoked! The boards should be here end of next week..
Bob’s site has the breakdown on what is needed to do the conversion and it is beyond my known knowledge; not saying I wouldn’t try it, but there would be a fair amount of cussing when I render the board dead…. lol
As it is, I am looking forward to flat-footing it around Seaside! Woo Hoo!
I love the old arcade games and am certainly glad there are peeps who use their means to preserve them.

Jeff said in January 4th, 2009 at 12:10 am

ha ha is this pic: http://jeffsgames.com/images/arcade/games/pole/pp2/pp2scn6.jpg
saying no to martinis??


Jason said in January 5th, 2009 at 2:27 pm

Would replacing the battery on the Pole Position board with the MCR battery replacement kit that Bob Roberts sells be acceptable? Also, have you come across any Pole Position high score save kits?


Michael Mauricio said in January 5th, 2009 at 2:40 pm

I replaced my monitor and it’s up and running great again. Unfortunately, i noticed that i can’t hit max speed sometimes, does anyone know the cause of this and how do i fix it… it only happens intermittently so i can live with it, but any advice anyone can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Jeff Waldron said in January 5th, 2009 at 5:08 pm

@Jason, I don’t know if that kit would work or not. You can ask Bob. He’s an expert on these things too! I know you don’t need a battery for the game to run. It is probably just for high score save.

@Michael, maybe check the gas petal mechanics to make sure everything is running smoothly. Other than that, I wouldn’t know what to try right off.

Michael Mauricio said in January 5th, 2009 at 6:25 pm

Thanks Jeff! I’ll check it out! btw, has anyone tried qualifying on the Test track with the 2nd lap? I accidently did it and it really bumps up your score… just fyi… i don’t believe it’s possible on the other three tracks…

Jeff said in January 9th, 2009 at 2:24 pm

Well, I recieved my PPII boards today, looked to be sound, not terribly dirty but does have extra solder on all the pins of the vidoeo board input. But since the guy I got it from said it is “working” I plugged it in and promptly got a garbled screen exactly like the RAM 6 error screen above, ‘cept my screen shows “error IC25” which the manual saysd is the chip 4K.. which is not in a socket … so much for “working” lol

Jeff said in January 9th, 2009 at 2:51 pm

Edit: further investigation reveals that IC25 is referring to the PCB board in which 4K IS socketed. It is the video board 4K that is not socketed..
So I pulled the 4K chip and reseated it as it was very clean. Now the game boots (hear the crash) but the screen goes to a light brown and has some rights info.. will post a link to the pic in a few minutes.. Also, the self test checks out good now.

Jeff said in January 9th, 2009 at 4:52 pm

Here is the link to the pic of my stuck screen


Any help with this would be highly appreciated!

Jeff said in January 9th, 2009 at 7:35 pm

O MY GOSH, O MY GOSH O MY GOSH!!! Do you know what that screen is?? It is what shows up when dip switch 8 is set to “ON”, on 9JA!! Presumably during shipping the dip switches got pushed on and that is what had caused my frustrations!! Bummer I had not looked into that prior to all the other stuff…
All is good now! Woo HOO!!

Jeff Waldron said in January 10th, 2009 at 1:46 pm

Congrats on finding the switch! That’s great. Check out http://forums.klov.com now that you have it working, and also sign up for http://www.coinopspace.com. KLOV has some good discussion on some Pole Position scores (search for KLOV High Scores), and COSP is a new arcade collector “community” of forums that will teach you a lot.

shirley howard said in February 18th, 2009 at 8:35 pm

Jeff we have a pubtime dart board. We are having problems with getting it to allow anymore then one player nto play. Then when you do hit the number you need to go out for 301 it says busted, Cricket works fine, but will only allow one player no matter how many quarters you put in. We do have the schematics book,
It was working when we bought it at the pawn shop. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix it. IF SO DO YIU KNOW ANYONE IN OUR AREA WHO COUKKLD HELP US,.THANK YOU Shirley Howard We live in New Port Richey, Florida and love to play darts at home. PH# 1-727-264-7140 Call us collect. email add: shirl0609

Keith said in April 13th, 2009 at 8:56 pm

where do you get replacement ram and memory chips for a pole position 2 mine has the same problem you had with yours and after i get it running can i rewire it in too a pole position 1 sitdown version ?

Jeff Waldron said in April 17th, 2009 at 3:18 pm

You can swap a PP2 board into a PP1 cabinet. Should work great. For replacement parts, I’d start with Bob Roberts. His address is on my links page. you may need to email him to ask about what you need.

Ignus Fast said in June 4th, 2009 at 9:00 pm

You completely rule, man! Between the sense jumpers and the burned resistors, this page helped me get my PP back and running!


Jeff Waldron said in June 5th, 2009 at 11:49 am

Glad it helped you! Congrats on getting it running again. Make sure you check the edge connector on the PCB to make sure it’s not damaged. Also, you may want to run some power leads to the board test points just to bullet-proof it.

Brian Mcbride said in September 16th, 2009 at 12:26 pm

I am trying to fix my PPI video game and have a really basic question. If the lights on the PCB do not light up, would that indicate that my board is not getting enough power? The monitor glowes in a bright pink and the fax, lights all work. But I don’t get any sound or picture on the screen. Any clues where to start in fixing this is appreciated.

Steve said in January 28th, 2010 at 9:55 pm

I can’t believe these posts. I have no idea why you guys can’t fix this stuff. It has to be the easiest electronic architecture ever made. The boards are nice and big, the components are spaced so you can work on them. 9/10 problems can be solved with a DMM and logic probe.

Dan said in February 12th, 2010 at 2:48 pm

Thanks for the help, Steve.

jared said in March 3rd, 2010 at 1:05 am

i have a pp1 arcade and when i turn it on all i get is a blue screen
with a bunch of ones, zeros and other numbers and random letters what do i do to fix it.

Dan said in March 19th, 2010 at 4:10 pm

jared: join the forums at forums.arcade-museum.com and post your question there.

Cindy said in March 23rd, 2010 at 12:14 pm

I have the same graphics issue with my game. The clouds and background are distorted. Did you ever figure the problem? I replaced 6n and 7n and my power supply voltage is good.

Jeff Waldron said in March 26th, 2010 at 11:57 am

Nope, I still haven’t fixed it. I gave up on it for a while to work on some other issues. I am trying to read up on some of the components to learn how to test them out.

Craig from PeoriaAZ said in May 17th, 2010 at 5:58 pm

Hey Jeff, thanks for posting your info. I have a Pole Position that during gameplay, shows shadows to the right of all cars and signs, a shop told me is was either a RAM or ROM oissue, but couldnt go any further. Any idea?


chuck said in December 18th, 2010 at 11:08 am

Does someone have a wiring diagram of the transformer? I am looking where the 5 volts is supposed to come from and how to adjust it.


Jim said in June 25th, 2011 at 7:54 pm

I have a PP2 stand up arcade game. It just started vertical rolling on the monitor. This is typically very easy to adjust on a TV screen, but I have searched the game and can’t find the adjustment knob. Do you have any suggestions or location ? Thanks in advance.

Assuming that I can get the game fixed, everything about the game is in great shape (including the exterior paint, appearance, and monitor). Do you know the value of the game and do you know anyone interested in buying it ?

Jeff Waldron said in June 30th, 2011 at 8:17 am

@Jim, you should be able to find an adjustment knob for it. Keep looking. There will be several potentiometer adjustments on the main chassis board. One will be vhold. As far as value goes, a fully working Pole Position is not the most common game because they have so many problems. It’s also a fun race game. My guess is you should be able to sell it pretty easy. I don’t know where I would start as far as price goes however, since each market seems to be different. I’ve heard California is a really cheap game market, where here in the Midwest they are still pretty pricey. Good Luck!

darrell falls said in November 16th, 2011 at 10:48 pm

i’ve bulletproofed my ARII boards in my PPII machine and was wanting to power my +5 and ground lugs from the harness as you have, only thing i’m unsure of is where exactly to feed the power from
any help or maybe a diagram showing me would be greatly appreciated.
thank you

Jeff Waldron said in November 17th, 2011 at 8:18 am

I actually came straight off of the +5 from the ARII board, piggy backing off of the harness edge connector. That way I would catch the voltage before the edge connector connection. Technically if you pulled the +5 from the harness and wired it to the test points, you wouldn’t even need to send it to the edge connector at all. I ended up both leaving it in the edge connector and sending it to the test points.

darrell falls said in November 20th, 2011 at 3:28 pm

hi jeff
i appreciate your help! does it matter which AR board i use to get my +5 volts and i’m going to tap into my +5 volts at the edge connector but still leave it where it still gets the +5 volts coming from the harness, is this correct.
thanks again for you help

Jeff Waldron said in November 21st, 2011 at 1:54 pm

I don’t even know for sure which one supplies the +5 or if they both do. I’d have to check. I just tapped at the edge connector on the harness, so whatever got the +5 to there is the one! Yes, you are correct. Just solder to the existing +5 and Ground wire and send to the test points. You COULD cut off one of the supplier wires since they usually send several to the harness connectors. Then just run that to your test points. That might be easier and work just as well.

Jon said in March 26th, 2012 at 2:15 am


I just bought a Atari pole position and when turning on i get a ram 8 error… Any idea and help to cure would be great… I just came upon your site, i too finished tron mine is disc though…



Kevin said in April 21st, 2013 at 7:01 pm

Jeff, I just got a Pole Position upright arcade on the cheap. Upon powering it up it has a scrambled pic on the monitor, then after a minute or two in switches to blue screen with ram 82. Any suggestions on where to begin? Thanks

Kevin said in April 21st, 2013 at 7:24 pm

Correction, RAM 28

tom said in April 26th, 2015 at 10:49 am

got a working pp board set but have lines in the background. can you repair? i also have an extra set of non working boards for parts if needed.

Chris said in June 11th, 2015 at 2:56 pm

Hello! I too have a PP2 machine, and it hasn’t worked right since I bought it last summer. I’m not the greatest with a solder gun, but there are some loose connections and I too have the garbled screen, and I think I saw “RAM 28” appear on the screen. I have a card to a service tech but don’t have a ton of cash to sink into this thing.

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