This week I did a few minor repairs to my Frogger while I was on vacation. I had a few parts I recently purchased from Bob Roberts to install, so I took a few hours this week to get some stuff accomplished. First, I needed to install a cap kit. The monitor picture was fuzzy and lacked some clarity. I like to install cap kits for the monitor of any new game I get. It helps to improve the picture and freshen up the image. It’s also really cheap to do! Turns out that I did not buy the right kit. I picked up a kit for a 20″ Sega monitor, which is what I thought this was. Turns out the monitor is even older than the one I thought I had. I spent a couple hours listing out all the caps on the monitor, and turns out I had enough with the kit I bought, plus a few other spares, to replace all of them but five. I’ll pick those up from Bob later on. I took a few pictures and documented the caps I did replace, and sent them to Bob in case he needed them.
After installing the cap kit, I replaced the broken Degauss button inside the coin door. Bob had a full switch panel that he sent me, so I pulled off the nice volume knob and the degauss switch and installed them on the switch panel in my Frogger. They worked great!
Finally, I’ve been really bothered by how back the monitor looks inside the game because I am missing the cardboard artwork bezel. I eventually would like to pick up a new one from Arcadeshop, but until I have the money to do so I thought I would make one from a couple pieces of black posterboard. I reviewed pictures of the original Frogger bezel that I don’t have, and figured I could make one very similar. The bezel lays over the monitor, and has some support pieces underneath to hold it flat and tight to the curve of the monitor. The top of the bezel angles upward, and covers about a 7″ vertical gap against the back door of the cabinet. The real one looks really nice in photos I’ve seen, but I just want to hide the monitor and frame.
I spent a couple hours measuring and cutting posterboard, then I glued all the pieces together. I used some masking tape on the backside of all the glued joints to hold them in place while they dried, and as extra reinforcement.
Here are the results: